Pha khao ma
Pink and yellow checkered pattern
Locally known as Pha khao ma (ผ้าขาวม้า), this traditional textile, woven in a classic small or large checkered grid in vibrant colors, is widely used all over Thailand. Linguistic and historical evidence reveals the term Pha khao ma is a phonetic corruption or sound conversion of the Persian word kamar band (meaning "waistband" or "sash") The concept of wearing a waist sash or band was introduced to Thailand through ancient trade connections with Persia (Iran). Over centuries, the local pronunciation shifted from kamar band to kamar, then ka ma, and finally khao ma in Thai. The English word cummerbund also has origins from this word.
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Pha khao ma are multi-purpose woven and traditionally crafted from 100% cotton or silk, making them exceptionally soft, breathable, and perfect for warm, humid climates. They come in all sizes but typically measure 2 sok wide and 3-4 sok long. Sok literally translates to elbow and is an old Thai measuring system, 1 sok equals 50cm.
Pha khao ma have multiple contemporary uses as a: towel, sarong, baby carrier, head covering, storage bag, or sitting mat. Contemporary local designers have also now re-adapted it into modern apparel, accessories, and home decor featured on international runways. This one piece of cloth is so versatile that it has become the fabric of Thai culture. Currently, Thailand is trying to get pha khao ma registered as an ‘intangible cultural heritage of humanity’ with UNESCO.
Title: Sarong
Date: 2019
Geography: Bangkok, Thailand
Medium: Silk
Dimensions: H. 82 in. W. 39 in.
Provenance: Purchased at Queen Sirikit Textile Museum
Inventory Number: TH.07
